What beholds you in the land of the Tamizh? Beyond the beaches, temples and filter Kaapi!

 

Piping hot Venpongal (lentils and cooked rice) floating in ghee, and a steaming cup of Thayirsaadam(seasoned curd rice) show up in a brazen spirit- unmindful of the notorious heat of Tamil Nadu. Served and savoured with religious fervour, the flavour doubles up, when distributed as prasadam in temples (in a dhonnai or arecanut leaf cups). The aromas waft along with the smoke of incense sticks and camphor. The temple bells chime to the devotional rendition by M S Subbulakshmi(also a Bharat Ratna recipient) , welcoming dawn.

To the symphony of the doyen of Carnatic music, the waves of the sea also rise in a crescendo. Lashing out near the shore, the moored catamarans are set sailing in the sea- along the Coromandel coast. The men spread the nets, while women make arrangements to sell the prize catch of the day! The saline smell however does not elbow out the fragrance of jasmine as flower sellers make a throng in the markets. Some find their niche hotspot outside temples, especially in the mornings!

Jasmine flowerets along with other varieties are strung together in varying patterns. They either become the elaborate garlands for adorning deities or turn into flower wreaths – which every Tamil girl fondly twines around her braid to match her traditional attire.

 Threading the traditional designs – of flowers, symbols and patterns, a kolam(pulli or kambi) takes shape on neatly swept grounds. As grand and intricate as the gopurams of the temples, these Kolams represent the rich culture and tradition of Tamil Nadu. And, it all burgeons in a ‘sanctum’ that is centuries old![smr1] 

 The rich culture, tradition, and historic legacy led us on a trail to discover Tamil Nadu in its true essence

Thus, begun our journey at the Big temple or Brihadeshwera(Shiva) temple in Thanjavur- Tamil Nadu. The grandeur does not limit to the towering gopuram or the sprawling precincts.  Built by Raja Raja Chola – I of the Chola dynasty, the temple showcases the Dravidian architecture, in its sculptures, vimanas and frescoes. Inscriptions in Tamil dating back to 985 -1014 CE left us in awe!

They record minute detailing that cover the regimen of the king, the temple activities to festive occasions featuring music and dance. While we were reading all these, the huge sculpture of Lord Natraja seemed to come to life, to the sound of jingling anklets, signalling a troupe of dancers ready to perform for a dance festival.

Have not we heard of the famous classical dance – Bharatanatyam? Surely, the name Kalakshethra does ring a bell!

Bharatanatyam set its nimble-feet in the Big temple by staging performances since 1000 CE. From the confines of a temple to being showcased on wider platforms, the dance form came to be patronized much later. The earliest mention of the dance form is found in the ancient Tamil epic of Silappaddikkaram.  

As ancient as Bharatanatyam are some of the folk dances of Tamil Nadu such as Karagattam, Kaliattam, Poikai Kudarai Attam etc. Imbibing the cultural ethos of Tamil Nadu, are the literary works of Tamil Sangam- one of the oldest works of literature in an Indian language.

Had we had enough wetting our feet at this grand confluence of cultural, literary and artistic streams? But the wave swept us farther. The poetic works of Thiruvalluvar’s Thirukkural took us to his birthplace Madurai. A popular temple town of Tamil Nadu, Madurai is famous for its Meenakshi temple and the Chithrai festival. A grand procession of the local deity unfolds in festive fervour. In all that glitters, would that shimmer of silk on the idols and womenfolk, steal the spotlight? It would, if it is the famous Kanchipuram silk that is iconic of Tamil Nadu! 

With equal grandiosity, the harvest festival of Pongal is celebrated. And, when Pongal is around the corner, who but the mighty will take the bull by its horns for Jallikattu! Taming the raging bulls can be daunting. But to the cheers of spectators and a popular background score of Rajinikant(the iconic Hero of Kollywood), the youth  show their skill and spirit. The sport, conducted during Kanu Pongal is a rage among the locals in small towns and villages!

The country side of Tamil Nadu that form the rice belt bring in a cool summer breeze from the lush paddy fields. The landscape changes at a higher elevation, towards the west, along the borders of Kerala and Karnataka, where the Nilgiris rises. Hill stations like Ooty, Kodaikanal, Kotagiri are popular summer retreats of the Nilgiris. They are readily accessible from major hubs of Tamil Nadu – Salem, Coimbatore and the capital city – Chennai.

We discovered Chennai as a melting pot of the diverse ethnicity of Tamilians – the urban and rural, indigenous and cosmopolitan. They all merge and gather with a common craze for music, filter Kaapi & Marina beach. After our fill of Chennai, we stopped by at a vintage hotel for the famed Kumbakonam filter Kaapi.  Frothed to the rim, we sipped (with an urge to slurp as well) from a steel tumbler drumming our fingers to a famous number by Illaiyaraja- a legendary music composer of Kollywood.

The strains of melody lingered with the beats of the Marghazi music festival – the preparation for which, resounds throughout the year in the land of the Tamizh!